Tengkolok, also known as destar, setanjak/tanjak, and setangan kepala, is a traditional Malay male headgear. It is made from long songket cloth folded and tied in particular style. Nowadays, it is usually worn in ceremonious functions, such as royal ceremony by royalties, and wedding ceremony by grooms. The Malays in the state of Kelantan wear a variant called semutar.
Name
According to the 4th edition of Kamus Dewan, the terms "tengkolok", "destar", and "setanjak"/"tanjak" are synonyms; the word "tengkolok" also refers to "headgear or headcover worn by women", but the definition as women headgear is rarely used today. However, some people say that tengkolok, destar, and tanjak are different in term of cloth type or tying even though the purpose is the same, which the tengkolok is a headgear made from cloth of good quality and its tying has many layers and tapers to tip; "destar" has low tying and its tying layers are fewer than tengkolok; "tanjak" has tying much like tengkolok, the only difference is that its cloth is simple and thin. Tengkolok also mentioned in Malay Annals stories as Raja Muhammad, son of Sultan Mansur Syah murdered Tun Besar, son of Bendahara Tun Perak as a ball kicked by him, knocked off his tengkolok to the ground. This incident caused Raja Muhammad to be sent away from Malacca and installed as Raja in Pahang.
History
It is accepted that tengkolok was made as early as Malacca Sultanate. Before that time, commoners were obliged to cover their head or to tie their long hair, becoming neater and tidier when seeking an audience with sultan. Malaccan Malays managed to use a long rectangular cloth, folded and tied into a kind of neat headgear, to wear it in formal affairs. This cloth-tying became more beautiful as the time goes, modified and adapted depending on the status of its wearer.
Solek
Tengkolok is made in various forms, with different types and design of cloth, depending on the social status of its dress. The general term for different forms of tengkolok is "solek". Each different solek also has its special name, for instance: the tengkolok worn by Yang di-Pertuan Agong during coronation ceremony since the time of independence is known as "Solek Dendam Tak Sudah". Every Malay king has their particular solek. For example, the Sultan of Selangor wears a richly golden yellow "Solek Balung Raja" when attending a coronation ceremony or his birthday ceremony.
