Sea silk
Sea silk is an extremely fine, rare, and valuable fabric that is made from the long silky filaments or byssus secreted by a gland in the foot of pen shells. The byssus is used by the clam to attach itself to the sea bed.
Sea silk was produced in the Mediterranean region from the large marine bivalve mollusc Pinna nobilis until early in the 20th century. The shell, which is sometimes almost a metre long, adheres itself to rocks with a tuft of very strong thin fibres, pointed end down, in the intertidal zone. These byssi or filaments are spun and, when treated with lemon juice, turn a golden colour, which never fades.
The cloth produced from these filaments can be woven even more finely than silk, and is extremely light and warm; it was said that a pair of women's gloves made from the fabric could fit into half a walnut shell and a pair of stockings in a snuffbox. The cloth attracts clothes moths, the larvae of which will eat it.
In addition, Pinna nobilis is also sometimes gathered for its flesh and occasionally has pearls of fair quality.
History
Egypt
The Greek text of the Rosetta Stone records that Ptolemy V reduced taxes on priests, including one paid in byssus cloth. This is thought to be fine linen cloth, not sea silk. In Ancient Egyptian burial customs, byssus was used to wrap mummies; this was also linen and not sea silk.Greece
The sophist author Alciphron first records "sea wool" in his "Galenus to Cryton" letter.The early Christian Tertullian mentions it when justifying his wearing a pallium instead of a toga.
Nor was it enough to comb and to sew the materials for a tunic. It was necessary also to fish for one's dress; for fleeces are obtained from the sea where shells of extraordinary size are furnished with tufts of mossy hair.
Sea silk has been suggested as an interpretation of the nature of the golden fleece that was sought by Jason and the Argonauts but scholars reject this hypothesis.
Roman Empire
Several sources mention lana pinna. Emperor Diocletian's Edict on Maximum Prices lists it as a valuable textile.The Byzantine historian Procopius's c. 550 CE Persian War, "stated that the five hereditary satraps of Armenia who received their insignia from the Roman Emperor were given chlamys made from lana pinna. Apparently only the ruling classes were allowed to wear these chlamys."
Arabia
The Arabic name for "sea silk" is ṣūf al-baḥr. The 9th-century Persian geographer Estakhri notes that a sea-wool robe cost more than 1000 gold pieces and records its mythic source.At a certain period of the year an animal is seen running out of the sea and rubbing itself against certain stones of the littoral, whereupon it deposes a kind of wool of silken hue and golden colour. This wool is very rare and highly esteemed, and nothing of it is allowed to waste.
Two 13th-century authors, Ibn al-Baitar and Zakariya al-Qazwini, repeat this inaccurate "sea wool" story.
China
Beginning in the Eastern Han dynasty, Chinese histories document importing sea silk. Chinese language names include "cloth from the west of the sea" and "mermaid silk".The 3rd century CE Weilüe or "Brief Account of the Wei", which was an unofficial history of the Cao Wei empire, records haixi cloth made from shuiyang.
They have fine brocaded cloth that is said to be made from the down of "water-sheep". It is called Haixi cloth. This country produces the six domestic animals , which are all said to come from the water. It is said that they not only use sheep's wool, but also bark from trees, or the silk from wild silkworms, to make brocade, mats, pile rugs, woven cloth and curtains, all of them of good quality, and with brighter colours than those made in the countries of Haidong.
The c. 5th century CE Hou Hanshu expresses doubt about "water sheep" in the "Products of Daqin" section. "They also have a fine cloth which some people say is made from the down of 'water sheep,' but which is made, in fact, from the cocoons of wild silkworms". The historian Fan Ye, author of the Hou Hanshu, notes this section's information comes from the report that General Ban Yong presented to the Emperor in 125. Both Bans administered the Western Regions on the Silk Road.
The Tang shu "Book of Tang" mentioned Haixi cloth from Folin, which Emil Bretschneider first identified as sea silk from Greece. "There is also a stuff woven from the hair of sea-sheep, and called hai si pu ". He notes, "This is, perhaps, the Byssus, a clothstuff woven up to the present time by the Mediterranean coast, especially in Southern Italy, from the thread-like excrescences of several sea-shells,."
The early 6th century CE Shuyiji mentions silk woven by Jiaoren, "jiao-dragon people", which Edward H. Schafer identifies as sea silk.
In the midst of the South Sea are the houses of the kău people who dwell in the water like fish, but have not given up weaving at the loom. Their eyes have the power to weep, but what they bring forth is pearls.
This aquatic type of raw silk was called jiaoxiao, "mermaid silk", or jiaonujuan , "mermaid women's silk".
Modern
The earliest usage of the English name sea silk remains uncertain, but the Oxford English Dictionary defines sea-silkworm as "a bivalve mollusc of the genus Pinna."Alexander Serov's 1863 opera Judith includes an aria "I shall don my robe of byssus".
In Jules Verne's 1870 novel 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, the crew of the Nautilus wear clothes made of byssus.
Pinna nobilis has become threatened with extinction, partly due to overfishing, the decline in seagrass fields, and pollution. As it has declined so dramatically, the once small but vibrant sea silk industry has almost disappeared, and the art is now preserved only by a few women on the island of Sant'Antioco near Sardinia. Chiara Vigo claimed on various media to be the sole person living today to master the art of working with byssus and the local people
helped her to open the Sea Silk Museum in Sant'Antioco which was closed following a building code dispute with the local government. "Project Sea-Silk" from the Natural History Museum of Basel is collecting extensive data and studies on the subject, and informs the public that a couple of other women still produce and work today with byssus in Sant'Antioco in Sardinia, such as the sisters Assuntina e Giuseppina Pes which contradicts the claims of Chiara Vigo who is credited as having "invented with an extraordinary imagination her own story of sea-silk and it tirelessly and to the delight of all media on and on". In 2013, Efisia Murroni, a 100-year-old sea silk master weaver nicknamed "la signora del bisso" died and her work is now shown in the Museo Etnografico di Sant'Antioco, with other artefacts being already on display in various museums throughout Europe.