Schelklingen
Schelklingen is a town in the district of Alb-Donau in Baden-Württemberg in Germany. It is situated 10 km north of Ehingen, and 20 km west of Ulm. Schelklingen and 82% of its territory form part of the Swabian Jura Biosphere Reserve.
Geography
The town centre of Schelklingen is located in the prehistoric valley of the Danube at the feet of the Swabian Alb or Swabian Jura. The villages of Hausen ob Urspring, Justingen, and Ingstetten are located on the table land of the Swabian Alb. In the Schmiech valley are located the villages of Schmiechen, Hütten, Gundershofen, and Sondernach.Neighbouring municipalities
To the north of Schelkingen is the town of Heroldstatt, to the east the town of Blaubeuren, to the south-east the town of Erbach, to the south are Altheim and Allmendingen, and to the west are Mehrstetten and the town of Münsingen, the latter both belonging to the county of Reutlingen.Municipal structure
The borough of Schelklingen has the following municipal subdivisions: the villages of Schmiechen, Hausen ob Urspring, Justingen, Ingstetten, Hütten, Gundershofen and Sondernach. Within the borough are the municipalities of Schmiechen, Hausen ob Urspring, Justingen, Ingstetten, Hütten, Gundershofen and Sondernach. Also within the borough are smaller hamlets, individual farms, old corn mills, castles and an old monastery: Muschenwang Farm, Oberschelklingen Farm, the hamlet of Sotzenhausen, the corn mill hamlet of Springen, the Riedmühle mill, the hamlet of Talsteußlingen and Neusteußlingen Castle, the hamlet of Teuringshofen and the old monastery of Urspring.Rivers and lakes
- The little river of Urspring begins near the former monastery of Urspring and discharges after approximately 500 m into the river Ach
- The Ach originates near Urspring and empties into the Blau at Blaubeuren
- The Schmiech has its source in Springen and discharges into the Danube at Ehingen
- The Sondernach stream originates in the Sondernach valley and empties into the Schmiech near the Riedmühle mill.
Landmarks
- The Hohle Fels is a huge limestone rock in the Ach valley, its interior almost completely excavated by water. The cave was inhabited at least during the Stone Age. In September 2008, the Venus of Hohle Fels, the earliest known figurine in the world was discovered in the cave. Visits are possible.
- The Schmiechener See or Schmiecher See is a remnant from the ice age, and today forms part of a nature reserve.
- The Sirgenstein, like the Hohle Fels a huge limestone rock, but located on the opposite side of the Ach valley. During the stone age this cave was inhabited as well. During the Middle Ages a castle was built on the top of the rock. Some remains are still visible.
- The karst springs of the rivers Urspring, Ach and Schmiech.
History
Middle Ages and early modern times
Castro et villae Schälkalingen were first mentioned in an 1127 deed. The first owners were the Swabian edelfrei Lords of Schelklingen, three brothers: Rüdiger, Adalbert and Walter, who donated property to the newly established Benedicitne abbey of Urspring nearby. In the early 13th century, by the way of purchase, marriage or inheritance, the Schelklingen territory was acquired by the Swabian counts of Berg. Descending from Berg Castle near Ehingen, Count Henry III, also Margrave of Burgau, appeared as the holder of Schelklingen from 1234 onwards, at the time when for the first time the settlement was called a town. His son and heir Ulrich II adopted the title of a Count of Berg-Schelklingen in 1248. In 1343, the last Count of Berg-Schelklingen, Conrad, sold the estates to the Habsburg dukes of Austria and received it back as fief. When he died three years later, the territory of Schelklingen fell to the Austrian dukes as a reverted fief.Schelklingen was later administered within Further Austria and remained with the Habsburg Monarchy until 1806. The Peace of Pressburg of 1805 brought Schelklingen to the Electorate of Württemberg as reward for the military help given to Napoleon by the Württemberg rulers.
The permanent shortage of money on the side of the Dukes of Austria and the high prestige connected with an own dominion on the side of the landed gentry were the reasons why the territory of Schelklingen most the time was mortgaged and given away as a fief. While during the period from 1346 to the end of the 15th century the masters of the mortgage changed fast, the situation became more stable afterwards. Up to 1568 the territories of Ehingen, Schelklingen and Berg were possessed by the following persons respectively families:
- John the Rich of Stadion and his inheritants
- Ludwig of Freyberg, residing in Öpfingen
- Konrad of Boyneburg
In 1806, Schelkingen was acquired by Württemberg, and the King of Württemberg was busy to end feudal rule in his new Kingdom. Mediatization ended the rule of the Schenk von Castell family in Schelklingen, and the counts step-by-step sold their properties there.
19th and 20th century
During the 19th century Schelklingen evolved from a town of artisans and peasants towards an industrial town. In 1806 the monastery of Urspring was secularized. High costs of maintaining the many buildings finally caused Württemberg to sell the former monastery. In 1832 most of the buildings were bought by the cotton manufacturer Georg Reichenbach with the intention to build up a cotton weaving factory. This factory later adopted the name of Mechanical Weaving Factory Urspring. In 1907, the factory was transferred to Schelklingen into a new building along the Ehingerstraße. In Urspring, most of the factory buildings were removed. Caused by international competition from low-wage countries, the MWU in the 1950s got financial problems and was closed.In Urspring in 1912, after the grain mill at the Ach spring was changed into the municipal electricity and water factory, a new grain mill was built which is today used as a school building. From 1907 to 1930 the buildings in Urspring were not inhabited except for a tavern. Only in 1930 the former monastery found a new utilization by the foundation of the Urspring School, a Protestant country boarding school and gymnasium.
A second industry branch which developed during the 1830s, was the production of matches. This innovation was based on the invention of the phosphor match. Three factories were founded employing many women and children in home work. These factories were closed at the beginning of the 20th century.
During the late 19th century in the valleys of the rivers Blau, Ach and Schmiech evolved the cement industry, based on the invention of the Portland cement. In 1889, the first Barbey factory was built, later called Hammerstein cement factory, and shortly after 1900 the large plant of the Stuttgarter Immobilien- und Baugeschäft. The Hammerstein factory was closed and changed into dwellings for cement workers. This new factory attracted many external workers, especially also many Italian migrant workers: some of them remained in Schelklingen. Later, this cement factory was bought by the Portland-Cement-Fabrik AG Heidelberg und Mannheim AG, today HeidelbergCement.
During the 1870s a Catholic institution for boys living in bad social conditions was founded, the St.-Konradihaus. During World War II the town was a place of internment for POWs from Poland. In 1941 the St.-Konradihaus was requisitioned by the government and until 1945 was used as a relocation camp in order to reeducate people from Alsace.
After the end of the World War II, Schelklingen was being part of the French occupation zone and in 1947, it was assigned to the newly founded state of Württemberg-Hohenzollern, which was incorporated in the state of Baden-Württemberg in 1952.
Territorial development of the town
According to the administrative reorganization of the municipalities the following communes have been incorporated into the town of Schelklingen:- 1 March 1972: Hausen ob Urspring and Justingen
- 1 April 1972: Ingstetten and Hütten
- 1 July 1974: Schmiechen
- 1 January 1975: Gundershofen and Sondernach
Religions
Schelklingen is predominantly Catholic. The territory of the former dominion of Schelklingen, conististing of the town of Schelklingen, Hausen ob Urspring and Schmiechen and the territory of the former Urspring monastery until 1806 belonged to Further Austria. During the 16th century until the end of the 30 Years War, the villages of the former territory of Justingen adhered to the belief of Caspar Schwenckfeld, promoted by the lords of Freyberg. When the territory of Justingen was newly acquired again by the prince bishop of Augsburg Johann Christoph von Freyberg, Catholicism was reintroduced. The village of Sondernach was part of the territory of Neusteußlingen; under the rule of the lords of Freyberg residing in the castle Neusteußlingen it was Catholic. When this territory went back to the Dukes of Württemberg in the late 16th century, the Reformation was introduced there.In Schelklingen at the moment exist each one Roman Catholic, Lutheran Protestant and New-Apostolic community. In addition, Muslim inhabitants live in Schelklingen. The Islamic citizens came to Schelklingen since the early 1960s by the way of labour migration, mainly from the Republic of Turkey. Some years ago, the Muslim inhabitants built a small mosque at the outskirts of the town.
Politics
Mayors
During Austrian times the town was administered by the governing official mayor and his predecessor, the lower mayor. These were supported by an internal and external council with four members each, called councilors or deputies. The town offices like town, church, and hospital accountancy, etc. were distributed among the councilors. The mayors were elected for one year, but reelections were possible, proved by the mayors' partly long years in office. After 1806 Württemberg introduced the position of the Schultheiß, elected for life. Later for towns the title Stadtschultheiß was introduced. In 1930 in Württemberg the title Bürgermeister was adopted which is used until the present day. The mayor is currently elected for a term of eight years.- Haintz Pfortzer 1433
- Ulrich Gyger 1446
- Hans Seiner 1481
- Hans Minderer 1560
- Franz Bischof 1800
- Franz Joseph Eberle 1800–1823
- Johann Nikolaus Heyschmid 1823–1825
- Johann Baptist Bauer 1826–1835
- Georg Martin Betz 1836–1847
- Philipp Scheitenberger 1847–1873
- Anton Fischer, from Justingen 1873–1906
- Anton Fischer 1906–1946, son of the former
- Karl Oßwald 1946–1960
- Hans-Joachim Baeuchle 1961–1974
- Rudolf Stützle 1975–2000
- Michael Knapp 2000–2016
- since 2016: Ulrich Ruckh
- First deputy mayor: Jürgen Haas
- Second deputy mayor: Reiner Blumentritt
Municipal council
- Christian Democratic Union : 31.6%, 9 seats
- Free Voters : 18.0%, 5 seats
- Social Democratic Party of Germany : 19.0%, 5 seats
- Pro Schelklingen e.V.: 38.4%, 8 seats
Coat of arms
Gundershofen | Hausen ob Urspring | Hütten | Ingstetten | Justingen | Schmiechen | Sondernach |
Economy and infrastructure
Traffic
Schelklingen is a small regional railway junction. At this place the Ulm–Sigmaringen railway meets the Swabian Alb Railway which comes from Kleinengstingen over Münsingen to Schelklingen. While traffic on the Swabian Alb Railway is quite low, departures and arrivals are frequent on the Ulm–Sigmaringen railway. Schelklingen is a stop for both Regional-Express and Regionalbahn trains. Therefore, at least two trains per hour leave for Ulm. In the opposite direction for Sigmaringen, a train leaves every hour; and trains leave every two hours for the much more remote town of Titisee-Neustadt. Every hour, via Ulm station, regional trains leave for Memmingen. Schelklingen is a member of the Donau-Iller regional transport association Donau-Iller-Nahverkehrsverbund.Schelklingen is connecteed to the supraregional road network via Federal Road 492 . Schelklingen has access to the Federal motorway system via the Federal Motorway A 8 – exit Merklingen respectively Federal Motorway A 7 – exit Ulm/Langenau.
Local enterprises
Larger plants of the HeidelbergCement AG and Cooper Standard Automotive are located in the town.Education
Schelklingen has an elementary school, an extended elementary school with a practical secondary school, all included in the Heinrich-Kaim-school, as well as four additional elementary schools in the parts of the town, all supervised by the municipality.In addition, the Urspring School offers high school studies accompanied by a boarding school, under the supervision of the Protestant Church. In addition to the Abitur, practical studies can be finished as well.
The St. Konradihaus is an institution for youth assistance with a boarding school, where young people from the age of 12 years onwards may obtain general schooling and occupational education.
Furthermore, four Roman Catholic, two municipal and one Protestant kindergarten exist in the town.
Culture and things to see
Library
The municipal public library is located in the Old Townhall. Its holdings are stored in an online library catalogue.Theatres
A theatre club exists, presenting popular performances. There is no theatre in the strict sense of the word any more.Museums
- Municipal museum in the former Hospital of the Holy Spirit
Orchestras and clubs
- Musikverein Stadtkapelle Schelklingen
- Musikverein Schmiechen
- Brassband
- TSV Schelklingen
- Liederkranz Schelklingen
- DLRG
- Förderverein Freibad Schelklingen
Buildings
Castles and manor houses
- Within the borough are the ruins of several castles: Hohenschelklingen, Muschenwang, Sirgenstein and Studach. Furthermore, there are remains of the palaces of Hohenjustingen and of the medieval castle Neusteußlingen. In 1897 the Neusteußlingen castle was rebuilt in historicist style by the newspaper publisher and economic historian Eugen Nübling from Ulm.
Religious buildings
- The Benedictine monastery of Urspring was founded in 1127. Some buildings date from approximately 1500, otherwise mostly 17th century.
- The Sacred Heart of Jesus parish church was newly built in 1934. The former sacristy from the late Gothic period, today used as a sidechapel, and the church tower, in its lower parts stemming from Romanesque times with hump square stones, were preserved. The upper part of the church tower and the onion tower were built by Joseph Cades in 1905.
- St. Afra-Chapel.
- Herz-Jesu-Chapel.
Parish and curate houses
- The old clergyman's house, an impressive timber framing, approximately built in 1600.
- The new clergyman's house, originally a curate house, donated by the of Westernach noble family for the family altar in the Urspring monastery, later used as municipal chancellery.
- The curate house of the of Wernau noble family in the Kanzleigasse: a baroque building in the French style of that time, approximately built in 1750.
- The curate house of the Roth von Bußmannshausen noble family in the Stadtschreibereigasse: baroque building from approximately 1750, today strongly modified.
Houses of the nobility
- Hospital of the Holy Spirit , former residence of the lords of Wernau with the former hospital well.
- Bemelberg Castle, residence of Conrad of Boyneburg .
- Tavern of the Small Horse, former residence of the nobleman Hans Reuß of Reussenstein.
- Stauffenberg Castle, residence of the family of the Schenk of Stauffenberg.
- The Rennhof'', residence of the noble family of the Renner of Allmendingen.
Municipal buildings
- The old town hall, in the centre of the Market Street, approximately built in 1450.
- The town walls: original parts have survived in the external walls of houses. The town wall is preserved up to its full height near the Bemelberg castle. Part of the town wall was rebuilt near the Hospital of the Holy Spirit
- The back well : public well.
Houses of citizens
- House of a citizen with a beautifully restored framework at the Maximilian-Kottmann-Platz.
- House of a citizen-peasant near the former back gate, attached to the town wall, in the Stadtschreibereigasse, with restored framework.
- The so-called New House, a baroque building of Franz Xaver Schalch, a steward of the Urspring monastery.
- Tavern of the Sun, formerly called Gasthaus zur Güldenen Sonne, the oldest tavern and hotel.
Sport
- Public outdoor swimming pool
- Skate board pipe
- Soccer place and sporting facilities in the Längental
Regular festivals
- Parade of Swabian-Alemannic Fastnacht groups
- St. Nicolas market on the first Saturday of each December
- Peasant and street market each Wednesday a.m.
Culinaric specialties
Personalities
Honorary citizens
Schelklingen has awarded the rights of honorary citizenship to the following persons:- 23 June 1879: Robert Rall, manufacturer of cotton cloth
- 9 March 1923: Heinrich Günter, professor of medieval history
- 22 November 1946: Max Kottmann, prelate and general curate
- 11 April 1956: Anton Fischer, mayor
- 2000: Rudolf Stützle, mayor
- Year?: Erich Karl, manager and local politician
Sons and daughters of the town
- Christoph von Stadion : Dr. iur., bishop of Augsburg 1517–1543
- Johannes Bumüller : Dr. phil., professor at a "Gymnasium", editor and Catholic writer
- Ludwig Lutz : tinsmith master, manufacturer of tin toys in Ellwangen/Jagst; precursor of the Märklin toy factory
- Franz Sales Günter : since 1855 administrative official of the district of Oberndorf a.N., mayor of Oberndorf a.N. from 1870–1899; he was granted the golden medal for civil merits, the silver jubilee medal by the King of Württemberg and the Order of Osmanieh 4th class by the Turkish sultan
- Sebastian Luz : painter of religious topics, historical motifs, portraits and land scapes
- Maximilian Kottmann : Dr. phil., Dr. theol. h.c., general curate of the diocese of Rottenburg, honorary senator of the University of Tübingen, 1946 honorary citizen of Schelklingen and honorary citizen of Rottenburg am Neckar
- Heinrich Günter : Dr. phil., Dr. theol. h.c., professor of history at the Universities of Tübingen and München, 1923 honorary citizen of Schelklingen
- Heribert Jone : Dr. iur. can., Catholic priest, professor of canon law and moral theologist
Other important personalities
- Johann Georg Wolcker the Older : baroque painter in Schelklingen
- Friedrich List : 1809-1810 tax renovator of the Kingdom of Württemberg in Schelklingen, author of the Schelklingen tax register of 1810
- Johann Georg Friedrich Reichenbach : founder and owner of the cotton weaving factory Urspring from 1832–1852, politician of the 1830s and 1840s
- Robert Rall : owner and director of the Mechanical Weaving Factory from 1870–1930; on 23 June 1879 honorary citizen of Schelklingen with the argument "that he treated his factory workers much better, more respectful and more just than it was usually the case"
- Otto Merz : chauffeur, race car driver, test driver and mechanic
- Franz Beyer and of Anna Günter ): retired professor for music at the University for Music and Theatre Munic ; spent the years of his youth in Schelklingen with his relatives there
- Erich Karl, manager and local politician
- Marie-Louise Roth-Zimmermann, literary scholar