Pheran or Phiran is the traditional outfit for both males and females in Kashmir. The pheran consist of two gowns, one over the other. The traditional pheran extends to the feet, which was popular up to the late 19th century C.E. However, a relatively modern variation of the pheran extends to below the knees, which is worn with a suthan inside similar to the styles worn in Afghanistan. It is optional to wear the suthan with a long phiran as traditionally lower garments are not worn with pherans. The traditional pheran do not have side slits. According to some sources, the pheran was introduced by Mughal emperor Akbar when he conquered the valley in 1586. In summer, the pheran are made of cotton, but in winter, the pheran is made of wool, covering and protecting the body from the cold especially during snow. These dresses are used by the residents of the Kashmir valley and Kashmiris residing in Chenab Valley.
Etymology
There is no consensus as to the origin of the word 'pheran'. However, it seems that the word is a corruption of the Persian word 'perahan' which means shirt. The outfit has been in vogue in Kashmir since before the 15th century.
Design
Head dress
Hindu women use a "taranga", a headdress which becomes smaller down at back, towards the heels. Kashmiri Muslim women use a red headwear known as the "kasaba". The kasaba is padded by means of a turban and is pinned together by brooches. A pin-scarf revoked from the kasaba descends towards the neck.
Pheran
The pheran is a loose upper garment loosely gathered at the sleeves which tend to be wide, made of either wool or jamewar which is a mixture of wool and cotton, with no side slits. A pheran made of wool is called a 'loch'. Female pheran dresses are designed with colorful flower like designed elements and styles. Male pheran dresses are quite simple without any colourful designs. The traditional pheran falls to the feet like a gown which was universally worn by the Hindu and Muslim communities into the later 19th century C.E. However, a modern version is knee-length and is worn by Muslim people which is loose and stitched at the front side and on the finishes while Hindu people wear their pherans long, extending down their legs. Ankle length Pherans are tied at the waist. Intricate embroideries or flower styles are a popular function of a Kashmiri ladies pheran. The embroideries or flower Styles are made of thin metal threads and this kind of embroidery is known as 'Tille' in Kashmiri language.
Poots
The poots is the same as the pheran but made of lighter material and is worn beneath the pheran. It is generally used to save the pheran from burns due to kangri. It also provides extra heat during winters, double layered protection, from the cold winter days.
Suthan/shalwar
Traditionally, the pheran and poots were worn without a lower garment. Indeed, in neighbouring Hunza too, women did not wear pajamas until 1890 and in Nagar until 1925. Since the latter part of the 19th century, loose suthans and churidar pajamas of the Punjab region became popular in Kashmir. Accordingly, the suthan or churidar pajama can form part of the pheran ensemble but is not a must. The Kashmiri suthan is baggy and loose and is similar to the Dogri suthan worn in the Jammu region. Some versions are similar to the shalwars worn in Afghanistan. However, since the 1960s, the straight cut Punjabi salwar has become popular.
A Kanger; is traditionally used to keep warm and is carried under the pheran. It is filled with coal for a lasting, which provides warmth for a long time. However, current medical advice is not to use the kanger.
Modern fashion
Modern trends saw a decline in the use of pherans in favour of the shalwar kameez. However, there has been a revival in recent years as pherans have become part of modern fashion, and are worn by females of other areas of India as well. Kashmiri men are also wearing the pheran as a fashionable outfit. Combined with jeans, the pheran has made its way into the office world. The modern pheran is not as wide and long as the traditional ankle or knee-length version and sometimes has side slits. Fewer men are wearing the phiran with a shalwar.
