2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup


The 2017 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 15 locations. Bouldering competitions were held in 7 locations, lead in 8 locations, and speed in 7 locations. The season began on 7 April in Meiringen, Switzerland and concluded on 12 November in Kranj, Slovenia.
The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
The winners for bouldering were Jongwon Chon and Shauna Coxsey, for lead Romain Desgranges and Janja Garnbret, and for speed Vladislav Deulin and Anouck Jaubert, men and women respectively.

Highlights of the season

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 8 lead competitions of the season.
In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Chongqing, Iuliia Kaplina of Russia set a new world record of 7.46 seconds, breaking her previous world record of 7.53 seconds she set at the 2015 Speed World Cup in Chamonix.
Then the next week, at the World Cup in Nanjing, Reza Alipour of Iran and Russia's Iuliia Kaplina set new world records on their way to the men's and women's speed titles of 5.48 and 7.38 seconds respectively. The previous world record for the men was set at 5.60sec by Danyil Boldyrev of Ukraine at the IFSC World Championships in 2014, while for the women was 7.46sec by Iuliia Kaplina herself just a week before in Chongqing.

Changes from the previous season

For the 2017 season, the IFSC changed the timing method for the finals of World Cup tournaments. First, climbing time for lead finals was reduced from eight to six minutes. Second, climbing time for bouldering finals was reduced from four minutes plus to four minutes dead. This means climbers can no longer continue their attempt after the four minute mark, even if they’re off the mats before the clock runs out, which was the previous rule.

Streaming controversy

Before the start of the 2017 season, the IFSC announced that they had signed a three-year contract with the streaming platform FloSports, which would have made the streams of climbing World Cups available only to paying customers instead of being freely accessible. This led to an online petition asking the IFSC to change their deal with FloSports, which was signed by more than 12,000 people, and an open letter by the Athletes' Commission. The Commission voiced their frustration over the way the IFSC had previously communicated with the community at large, and "asked the athletes to withdraw cooperation with the livestream media until changes are made". On the next day the IFSC apologized for having made a mistake, and announced that the deal with FloSports had not actually been signed yet despite the earlier press release, and would not be concluded.

Overview

Bouldering

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted ' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.
RankNamePointsMunichNavi MumbaiVailHachiojiNanjingChongqingMeiringen
1 Jongwon Chon4534. 55.001. 100.001. 100.007. 43.004. 55.001. 100.0012.
2 Tomoa Narasaki4042. 80.006. 47.009. 37.002. 80.002. 80.002. 80.0021.
3 Alexey Rubtsov39910. 34.003. 65.004. 55.001. 100.0023. 3. 65.002. 80.00
4 Keita Watabe372-8. 40.006. 47.003. 65.001. 100.004. 55.003. 65.00
5 Kokoro Fujii3276. 47.004. 55.005. 51.009. 37.0011. 9. 37.001. 100.00
6 Rei Sugimoto278-2. 80.0010. 34.0011. 31.006. 47.0011. 31.004. 55.00
7 Jan Hojer2351. 100.0017. 18.0016. 20.00-7. 43.0012. 28.0013. 26.00
8 Yoshiyuki Ogata2325. 51.007. 43.003. 65.0017. 18.0027. 17. 18.009. 37.00
9 Jernej Kruder20129. 1.009. 37.008. 40.0023. 7.003. 65.00-5. 51.00
10 Jakob Schubert186'''9. 37.005. 51.00-5. 51.00-8. 40.0023. 7.00

Women

6 best competition results were counted ' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017.
RankNamePointsMunichNavi MumbaiVailHachiojiNanjingChongqingMeiringen
1 Shauna Coxsey5602. 80.001. 100.001. 100.004. 1. 100.002. 80.001. 100.00
2 Janja Garnbret4701. 100.00-7. 43.001. 100.002. 80.001. 100.006. 47.00
3 Akiyo Noguchi3813. 65.003. 65.002. 80.002. 80.0013. 26.003. 65.0021.
4 Miho Nonaka37710. 2. 80.003. 65.003. 65.003. 65.009. 37.003. 65.00
5 Petra Klingler2906. 47.004. 55.006. 47.006. 47.009. 7. 43.005. 51.00
6 Stasa Gejo2344. 55.00-27. 3.008. 40.0010. 34.006. 47.004. 55.00
7 Katja Kadic22711. 31.005. 51.005. 51.0021. 7. 43.0011. 31.0016. 20.00
8 Michaela Tracy19015. 13. 26.0010. 34.0010. 34.0011. 31.0015. 22.007. 43.00
9 Fanny Gibert1878. 40.00--5. 51.0012. 28.0012. 28.008. 40.00
10 Aya Onoe165'''-6. 47.0011. 31.0012. 27.005. 51.0021. 9.00-

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted '.
Country names as used by the IFSC
RankNationPointsMunichNavi MumbaiVailHachiojiNanjingChongqingMeiringen
1 Japan2118374372364390300318
2 Great Britain929146169166129173146
3 Slovenia927188152135188131133
4 Germany73617612692104104134
5 France715151--190112122140
6 Republic of Korea6946911814098128141
7 Russian Federation6081121455510389104
8 Austria54871115629211692
9 Suisse368595671475085
10 United States of America340'''77-1552737737

Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

7 best competition results were counted for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Romain Desgranges won.
RankNamePointsKranjXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoBrianconChamonixVillars
1 Romain Desgranges4779. 37.0022. 5. 51.001. 100.0010. 34.001. 100.004. 55.001. 100.00
2 Stefano Ghisolfi4135. 51.007. 43.001. 100.002. 80.0018. 3. 65.007. 43.0011. 31.00
3 Keiichiro Korenaga37310. 1. 100.008. 40.0010. 34.005. 51.0010. 34.002. 80.0010. 34.00
4 Domen Skofic3254. 55.0017. 18.004. 55.004. 55.0021. 9. 37.0013. 25.002. 80.00
5 Marcello Bombardi2897. 43.0023. 17. 18.0012. 28.009. 37.006. 47.001. 100.0018. 16.00
6 Jakob Schubert2651. 100.00--3. 65.001. 100.00---
7 Thomas Joannes22112. 28.009. 37.0016. 20.005. 51.006. 47.0019. 14.0027. 14. 24.00
8 Hanwool Kim21314. 24.0010. 34.003. 65.0013. 26.0015. 22.0013. 26.0016. 16.0029.
9 Fedir Samoilov19315. 22.005. 51.0025. 6.009. 37.0024. 7.00-26. 5.003. 65.00
10 Francesco Vettorata1826. 47.0014. 24.0014. 24.00-16. 19.0014. 24.009. 35.0022. 9.00

Women

7 best competition results were counted for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2017. Janja Garnbret won.
RankNamePointsKranjXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoBrianconChamonixVillars
1 Janja Garnbret6651. 100.003. 65.001. 100.001. 100.003. 1. 100.001. 100.001. 100.00
2 Jain Kim5252. 80.008. 2. 80.003. 65.001. 100.003. 65.002. 80.004. 55.00
3 Anak Verhoeven4448. 40.001. 100.008. 6. 47.006. 47.002. 80.003. 65.003. 65.00
4 Jessica Pilz374-4. 55.007. 43.002. 80.007. 43.005. 51.005. 51.005. 51.00
5 Julia Chanourdie3624. 55.0011. 3. 65.005. 51.004. 55.004. 55.006. 47.0010. 34.00
6 Mina Markovič3045. 51.005. 51.0010. 34.0015. 22.0021. 8. 40.0013. 26.002. 80.00
7 Molly Thompson-Smith2673. 65.006. 45.005. 51.009. 35.008. 40.0011. 31.00--
8 Ashima Shiraishi233-2. 80.006. 47.004. 55.005. 51.00---
9 Anne-Sophie Koller21011. 31.00--18. 16.002. 80.0022. 9.009. 37.009. 37.00
10 Hannah Schubert20416. 20.008. 38.0013. 26.009. 35.0019. 14.0019. 12. 28.007. 43.00

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted. Slovenia won.
RankNationPointsKranjXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoBrianconChamonixVillars
1 Slovenia1473273134189201197196283
2 France1440132195248180280173232
3 Japan1418169334261166172198118
4 Austria107014412724222412595113
5 Italy1022148160154115139193113
6 Republic of Korea895113164205971249696
7 Belgium642881067049110116103
8 United States of America628-81521491241265640
9 Germany5761368537665969124
10 Great Britain43211245511046951--

Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men

6 best competition results were counted ' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Vladislav Deulin won.
RankNamePointsXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoVillarsNanjingChongqing
1 Vladislav Deulin470.001. 100.008. 40.008. 1. 100.003. 65.003. 65.001. 100.00
2 Reza Alipour351.0012. 28.00--2. 80.001. 100.001. 100.007. 43.00
3 Ludovico Fossali346.004. 55.009. 37.001. 100.003. 65.004. 55.0010. 34.0016.
4 Aleksandr Shikov338.0014. 1. 100.004. 55.0013. 26.0013. 26.002. 80.005. 51.00
5 Stanislav Kokorin331.0015. 12. 28.002. 80.009. 37.002. 80.0013. 26.002. 80.00
6 Leonardo Gontero284.0011. 31.0013. 3. 65.006. 47.007. 43.005. 51.006. 47.00
7 QiXin Zhong196.006. 47.006. 47.00-15. 22.00-7. 43.009. 37.00
8 Guillaume Moro181.007. 43.0018. 16.005. 51.0010. 34.009. 37.00--
9 Danyil Boldyrev167.00---4. 55.00-6. 47.003. 65.00
10 Marcin Dzienski164.00'''21. 11. 31.0015. 22.0014. 24.005. 51.0016. 20.0018. 16.00

Women

6 best competition results were counted ' for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2017. Anouck Jaubert won.
RankNamePointsXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoVillarsNanjingChongqing
1 Anouck Jaubert545.001. 100.002. 80.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.003. 65.005.
2 Iuliia Kaplina525.0023. 1. 100.003. 65.002. 80.002. 80.001. 100.001. 100.00
3 Mariia Krasavina395.007. 43.006. 47.002. 80.0011. 3. 65.002. 80.002. 80.00
4 Anna Tsyganova331.003. 65.008. 40.00-3. 65.005. 51.004. 55.004. 55.00
5 Alla Marenych280.006. 47.009. 37.007. 43.009. 37.0012. 5. 51.003. 65.00
6 Aurelia Sarisson276.005. 51.005. 51.008. 40.005. 51.0013. 7. 43.008. 40.00
7 Anna Brozek271.0011. 10. 34.004. 55.004. 55.007. 43.009. 37.006. 47.00
8 Edyta Ropek213.0017. 18.0021. 10. 34.007. 43.009. 37.006. 47.0010. 34.00
9 Klaudia Buczek179.0019. 12. 28.009. 37.008. 40.0017. 18.0010. 34.0015. 22.00
10 Victoire Andrier177.00'''12. 28.0011. 31.005. 51.0016. 20.006. 47.00--

National Teams

For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted '. Russian Federation won.
RankNationPointsXiamenWujiangEdinburghArcoVillarsNanjingChongqing
1 Russian Federation2358333406344392417466
2 France1220222178242205210163
3 Italy99611493305225152107
4 Poland919112191177182138119
5 Indonesia793329324--140--
6 People's Republic of China670141155-22-160192
7 Ukraine596112714394122154
8 Islamic Republic of Iran39235--11410010043
9 Czech Republic191--3750244040
10 Austria144'''-8813421--

Combined

Maximum number of counting results per discipline: Lead: 7, Boulder: 6, Speed: 6. Not counting points are in brackets.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:
RankNamePoints
1 Tomoa Narasaki571.00
2 Jongwon Chon564.00
3 Kokoro Fujii489.00
4 Romain Desgranges477.00
5 Vladislav Deulin470.00
6 Jakob Schubert451.00
7 Jan Hojer432.00
8 Alexey Rubtsov427.00
9 Stefano Ghisolfi413.00
10 Keiichiro Korenaga373.00

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Combined World Cup 2017:
RankNamePoints
1 Janja Garnbret1135.00
2 Jain Kim626.00
3 Shauna Coxsey607.00
4 Anouck Jaubert545.00
5 Iuliia Kaplina525.00
6 Akiyo Noguchi518.00
7 Anak Verhoeven444.00
8 Mariia Krasavina395.00
8 Miho Nonaka395.00
10 Jessica Pilz387.00

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